Written by Cathy and Pranav
How do you get a van from London up to Orkney? The logistics for the 700 miles journey were a challenging organisation and it took a while to get the driving to and from sorted. The flights were an experience too. We didn’t quite work out who was stuck in the toilet on the flight. Despite one broken and one delayed suitcase, everyone managed to make their way to Scapa, and we were greeted by the mesmerizing spectacle of the northern lights on our first night in Stromness.
We dived from the MV Huskyan which is operated by Emily and Ben and were lodged at the accommodation Number 15 which is just 50 metres away from the harbour. Please note that Emily doesn’t fit through the windows!
Upon arrival we loaded our gear with the boat’s crane (yes it has its own crane!!) onto the deck and set it up. The Huskyan is very spacious; from the drysuit hanging spot to the usual charging spots for the cameras everything is meticulously thought through to make the diving a comfortable experience. Huskyan’s bow coming at you while resurfacing from the dives is quite impressive and a bit frightening. Emily however carefully manoeuvred the boat to recover divers from the waves.
Emily and her crew looked fabulously after us and after the dives, we were treated to tasty soup and scrumptious cake. Additionally, every diver’s choice of tea, coffee, or hot squish was conveniently prepared and awaiting us at our assigned places.
Emily is a walking encyclopaedia of the wrecks of Scapa. The briefings included multiple images and 3D scans of the vessels. She described in detail the bits that we could see, driveshafts, capstans, conning towers… and every wreck got its own Titanic moment. Torpedos (where they had not been salvaged, such as on the SMS Cöln) and gun runs were a big hit. I particularly liked Emily’s comparison of SMS Bayern’s gun turrets to wedding cakes. During the five days of diving we explored the Dresden, Karlsruhe, Cöln, König, Flottenbegleiter F2, Markgraf, Brummer, and the Kronprinz Wilhelm.
She also told us a lot about Dougall Campbell who owned the salvage rights to the German fleet during the 1970’s. He shaped the underwater landscape of the ships by blowing them up to scrap metal from the wrecks.
I must admit that while descending I mostly had already forgotten what I had been looking for. I didn’t forget though that I wanted to see the mine trolley tracks on the SMS Brummer (and found them!).
During our last surface interval we paid a visit to the Scapa Flow Museum in Lyness on the Island of Hoy. The museum tells the story of Scapa Flow as centre of the British naval universe and displays numerous artefacts from the wrecks.
For everyone wondering: yes, Pranav aka Wetnav braced through all the dives with a big smile. The steam gave away that he may have taken advantage of the boat’s hot shower (obviously before the dives). More about that here by Lord Pranav himself:
“How to dive in Scapa for a week in November in a wetsuit
0. Don’t!
If you’re after serious advice, you’ve taken a wrong turn somewhere. Diving in Scapa Flow is a bit more challenging than your average dive spot. The cold, deep waters are known for upping the stakes with increased DCI risk, and we didn’t get through this trip without some incidents. Being freezing cold certainly doesn’t help with that! But if, like me, you’re feeling stubborn (or just a bit daft), then read on!
1. Embrace the Cold
I genuinely love the cold—seriously. I’m that person who showers cold, even in winter. So while most sensible folks in the club slip into cozy drysuits, I opted for a wetsuit in the chilly waters of Scapa. I feel the most present, alive, and downright “in the zone” when I’m in those murky, icy depths.
2. Do a trial run in a quarry
My first 8-degree dive was a quarry experience in Wales back in 2022. We did two 60-minute dives in that fresh, bracing water, and by the end of it, I wasn’t the least bit cold. I felt refreshed. If you want to join me in this madness, I suggest starting with a trial run like that. You know, just to get an idea of what you’re getting into.
3. If You Must Do It, Consider Summer
Some of our club members have survived Scapa Flow in wetsuits—in the summer. In July and August, the water temperatures creep up to a balmy 13°C – which is Portland/Plymouth in April. But let’s be honest, you’re not here to read about the summer dive. You’re here for the full, shivering, November experience. So, keep reading.
4. Find Yourself a Nick Barter
When I first told the club my plan, I was instantly met with a chorus of “Are you insane?” But Nick Barter had my back. His classic deadpan response was “You’re going to be fine.” He sang praises of diving with Emily and her boat, which further convinced me to go for it. Get yourself a Nick. A little encouragement goes a long way when the rest of the world thinks you’re bonkers (which you are btw!).
5. Find Yourself a Gi(llian|anmaria)
Once I let a few people in on my plan, I quickly realized that backing out was no longer an option. Gillian and Gianmaria took care of that by letting the whole club know. Gillian, in particular, took it upon herself to remind me of my commitment at every opportunity. And when she couldn’t remind me, she reminded everyone else. Her taunts kept my spirits and resolve high—and so did Gianmaria’s stream of memes mocking my future misery. Trust me, a little public accountability keeps you from wriggling out of it!
6. Find Yourself a Huskyan and an Emily
Huskyan, Emily’s purpose-built dive vessel, is pure luxury after a season of rib diving. You’ve got your own gear spot, a lift to hoist you from the water, and even a warm shower. Not that I realized that last one until the third day, but hey—live and learn!
Emily’s dive briefings are legendary. Not only will you learn about the history of the wrecks, but you’ll also get a detailed route, complete with 3D scans and fascinating dive highlights. She could practically map out a treasure hunt! Plus, her accommodations are top-notch, with warm showers, laundry facilities, and a full kitchen. After a day of shivering in a wetsuit, you’ll want nothing less.
7. Find Yourself Buddies Like Jeremie and Cathy
Jeremie is the ultimate dive buddy. Even on the days when I insisted I was totally fine, he’d still fight with me to get back on the boat first (by arguing that if I didn’t then he’d swim away). He has a knack for spotting the hidden gems Emily mentions and point out things I would have completely missed (like a tiny “offen” inscription on an old gun).
Then there was his drysuit—which was barely more than a wetsuit itself! By the time he started feeling the chill, I was already feeling it, too. So it worked out perfectly: he got cold first, so I didn’t have to be the one to cut a dive short. And Cathy? She and Jeremie were both superstars with the DSMB, deploying it every dive so I could just hang out, chill (no pun intended), and soak in the view. Right, you two? This is the version of events we agreed on, yeah?
8. Find Yourself a Vineet/Michael/Jeremie/Ian
Whenever you’re diving, good food is non-negotiable. Luckily, our squad knew their way around the kitchen. Vineet, for example, made these spicy flavourful potatoes and rice and an aubergine dish that even convinced the club’s staunch aubergine haters, Nick and me! Michael whipped up some incredible Thai curry, and Jeremie’s burger night meant that as the lone veggie, I got an extra Beyond Meat patty. And then there was Ian, who took Gio’s risotto recipe and absolutely nailed it. Trust me, you need food that hits the spot, and these guys delivered. With food this good, you almost (almost) forget how cold you are.
9. Load Up on Calories (YMMV)
So if not for my wetsuit antics I’m notorious for my appetite. I become a full-on glutton when I dive. I usually end up having the equivalent of 2 meals every meal! So without exaggeration in addition to the fantastic food above I topped it off with an oven baked pizza almost every night (if you’ve dived with me you know my love for pizzas)!
Also I pretty much lived off pot noodles between dives, which I’d devour right after the boat’s amazing soup. There’s nothing like warm, spicy noodles to revive you after a bone-chilling dive. Oh, and did I mention Emily’s cakes? She bakes fresh cakes daily, which might just be reason enough to book a trip with her! Also annoy her enough and you might get a special cake too! TODO ADD PIC
10. Embrace the Cold and DIVE!
Sure, you’re going to be cold at some point. But just emrabce it and enjoy the experience. One pro-tip: get out of your wet undersuit/rashguard during the surface interval. I made the rookie mistake of sitting in mine during the surface intervals for two days straight, thinking I’d warm up quickly—spoiler alert: the surface intervals are 2-3 hours long. So, change out, wrap up, and enjoy the warm soup waiting for you on board.
Next Up?
Diving Scapa Flow in a wetsuit was a brilliant experience, but I’m not done with it yet! The WWI gun turrets, the massive rudders on the Markgraf, and all the little details Emily mentions during her briefings were incredible. Since then, I’ve gone full convert: I’ve got a drysuit now, a twinset, and I’m eyeing a stage cylinder. While I absolutely loved my wetsuit adventure, I’m ready for longer dives and the chance to see more of those hidden details Emily talks about.
And for the record – Gillian, Scapa didn’t break me. Now, how about Scapa in a shorty next?”
Doesn’t he look happy??
Now as for the non-diving activities, our designated cooks for the week (and their sous chefs) knocked up tasty meals with the ingredients bought during an exhausting supermarket run on the Sunday afternoon. Vineet’s curry was by far everyone’s favourite and even convinced the anti-aubergine league. Note to Nick B: do not eat from the cooking pot (… or at least not while Susie’s around).
Adding random songs to Pranav’s Spotify jam playing in the house while sitting at the pub next door was one of the evenings’ fun distractions.
Unfortunately, we indeed did not get through the week without incidents. Some of our divers experienced a few malaises and “Stromness hyperbaric chamber” was among our Google searches. A few, me included, had to pay a visit to the local doctors. First up Susie had some ear troubles. Michael then had to sit in the chamber after feeling unwell following the first day’s dives. On the second day of diving, I lost my hearing on one ear. It has never fully recovered (bear with me if I ask you to repeat things) but my PFO has meanwhile been closed. Later in the week the chamber also awaited Perry.
The divers grounded ashore (a.k.a. Clidry) explored the surroundings and visited Stromness’ own Stonehenge, as well as Saint Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall. Or the pub. A lot.
On our last day in Kirkwall, while the van was already moving back South, some of us learned about whisky making and drinking while enjoying a delightful tasting at the Highland Park distillery.
The week went by very far too quickly and we’ll be back, thank you Alasdair for organising!
We are an LGBTQIA+ friendly club 
