The Barracudas and Baguettes of Bormes

[Photo: Niovi Antoniou]

The journey itself was an expedition: our trusty club boat “Yellow”, having survived her stint in Calais was hitched for the long haul south, swapping the grey tarmac of the UK for the sun-drenched coast of the Côte d’Azur. Our base was Bormes-les-Mimosa, a picturesque gateway to the legendary Port-Cros National Park and Bay of Cavalière. We arrived with visions of serene blue waters, epic wrecks, and long, lazy afternoons. The Mediterranean, however, had a few surprises in store for us.

[Photo: Niovi Antoniou]

If there was one site that defined the trip, it was the rock pyramid of La Gabinière but getting there and back was half the adventure.

Beneath the waves, the bumpy rides were nowhere to be seen. We descended into a world of breathtaking abundance. A spiralling vortex of barracudas, so dense it felt like a silver wall, greeted us around every corner. Dour-faced, diver-sized groupers patrolled their territories, while silver torpedoes in the form of hunting tuna and jacks sliced through the blue.

The rocks themselves were a macro paradise, dotted with colourful nudibranchs, tiny, ornate jewels that delighted the spotters. This prompted theatrical sighs from Nick, who was aghast that anyone would focus on ‘tiny slugs’ when there was so much big stuff to be admired.

[Photo: Nick Barter]

The South of France is a wreck diver’s paradise, and we were determined to pay our respects. The undisputed heavyweight champion was Le Donator. This majestic cargo ship, draped in a forest of red and yellow gorgonian fans, sits deep and proud. Descending onto it, we plunged through a shimmering thermocline that instantly reminded any diver in a 5mm wetsuit that they had been, perhaps, a little optimistic. It quickly earned the nickname “Le Dominator” amongst our crew, a testament to its imposing presence and chilly depths. The wreck also demanded its own “donations”: Poseidon is now the proud owner of a single fin from Niovi and a rather nice torch from Nick, a sacrifice to the dive gods.

We also explored the sleek, eerie form of the Rubis, a French submarine scuttled after the war. Swapping cargo holds for torpedo tubes provided a fascinating contrast. The week’s wreck-fest was rounded out by dives on the Togo and the steamboat Spahis, each a unique chapter in maritime history now reclaimed by the sea.

[Photo: Harini Iyengar] Dan and ‘Deco’ Debbie having fun despite Seagrass Reef

Of course, not every dive can be a blockbuster. We affectionately nicknamed one site “Seagrass Reef,” a tribute to its magnificent and entirely uninterrupted meadow of… well, seagrass. A true minimalist masterpiece.

This week became a masterclass in flexibility and adaptation of our plans. Daily briefings often felt like a strategic negotiation against the elements and the equally unpredictable whims of local logistics. We truly experienced the Southern French mindset of going with the flow, whether that meant changing a dive site at the last minute or simply accepting that the cylinder you ended up with was the one you were destined to have, even if it meant diving with some atypical equipment (anyone come across a 13.5L or 18L single before?).

[Photo: Nick Barter] At least six inches of rain collected in Yellow during the storm

The challenges weren’t confined to the daytime. On our second night, the sky unleashed a storm of spectacular proportions, a dramatic reminder of the power of the Med. The temperamental weather kept our coxes on their toes and ensured we earned our post-dive relaxation.

And relax we did. Diving burns calories, and we dutifully replaced them with a tour-de-force of French gastronomy. Each evening, a different team took to the kitchen, proving that our talents extend well beyond in-water buoyancy & trim. The daily pilgrimage for fresh pain, the impossible decisions at the fromagerie, and the mandatory evening debrief over a glass of local vin became as much a part of the ritual as checking our weather apps and dive logs.

The South of France tested our patience but rewarded our persistence tenfold. It was a trip of beautiful contrasts: challenging surface conditions giving way to serene underwater worlds, logistical quirks overshadowed by incredible camaraderie. It was a reminder that the best adventures are the ones shared, especially when they come with a side of fresh pain au chocolat.

[Photo: Nick Barter] DM Niovi and ADM Jérémie were gifted Bormes Plongées hats on our last night out at the local food festival to remind them forever (or until they next lose them to the sea) of the trials and tribulations of making this trip happen. Thanks both!